Ciao Portobello
I first heard about the Portobello bookshop, which like many bookshops during the pandemic, gallantly fought to stay afloat through online sales. It made me look up this Edinburgh neighbourhood that I'd not come across during my city visits.
It was the first place I wanted to seek when I got to Portobello Beach. However, I always like coming across places by chance, rather than looking them up, and that's how I happened across what already felt like a special bookshop.
A couple of years ago, I saw a fantastic photograph of Portobello Beach during Birmingham Open Studios. The image, created by the Open Studios organiser Owen Visser about a decade ago, proved to be the catalyst. I was tempted to buy it but felt I needed to visit the place first to see if I actually like it. In any case, I have no wall space left for new art - I need to move.
I love Portobello Beach.
My beloved was away on tour so I took advantage of this time and invited my elder sister, who only in recent years has started travelling, mostly on cruises. This was our first trip together and possibly her first long-distance train trip - something I have enjoyed many times to Edinburgh, around the UK and across the world. I was happy to show an alternative mode of transport other than the car.
I booked us an Airbnb as there are very few hotels in the neighbourhood. The city centre has 100s of options but accommodation is as pricey as London. In any case, I like to experience places as a local so the delightful Airbnb studio built at the bottom of the host's garden was perfect. Especially as they had a wonderfully friendly dog for which they kept treats in our studio. It was so homely - they even have the same crockery mine.
I haven't used Airbnb for almost a decade - it's always a last resort as I prefer the security and structure of hotels. However, this 'tiny house' is much nicer, perfectly located and it came with a dog bonus.
The beach is about a 15-20 minute walk away, and the High Street with aforementioned book shop and plenty of coffee shops, restaurants and stuff shops is reached about 5 minutes before. We had a choice of different routes to get there so over our 3-day weekend, we explored different avenues - especially as we both love architecture.
It was uncharacteristically warm in April so everyone was eating outside cafes, which meant we managed to find brunch, even on a busy Saturday, inside one of the beachside eateries. I think we landed at Miros, where I enjoyed simple pancakes looking out to the sea. We tipped well for the service as the staff first moved us away from the front door that was ever-opening as hopeful diners tried their luck and then popped us in the window seat.
We also enjoyed a window view with our seat from Tills & Company, a High Street book shop and cafe, although that view amusingly was of Greggs.
We spent one day in Edinburgh during which we managed two visits to a Soderberg in one day; the original one, which, when it was still called Peter's Yard is one of my happy places in the world so I was thrilled to introduce this to my Sis. The second one was for lunch later in town after a visit to the always intriguing Dean Village.
When in town, I also bought a mystery book from Golden Hare Books. this is something I have always wanted to do and here I could have picked up half a dozen from the staff's wonderful descriptions. They also stock Edinburgh-made Quirky chocolate.
This was all before returning to Portobello Bookshop where I knew I was going to spend some money. I bought yet another tote bag for the collection. This one I use to carry my little writing laptop when I am out of town. (When in Birmingham, I faithfully use my Faculty Coffee bag).
I bought two books for the bag; the one from my list Careless People, which sadly was not worth the hype and I should have borrowed from the library rather than carrying back the pricey hardback (see my take on it here). The book of Nicola Sturgeon's speeches, signed by the former First Minister of Scotland, is 100% more inspiring.
Oh and I have new bookmarks from both stores. I now seem to have quite a bookmark collection. I am as good at avoiding picking these up when offered as I am at going into bookshops and libraries that I pass.
I did source a print from one of the many art/stuff shops on Portobello High Street. I was taken by the swimming image that is seen everywhere in the neighbourhood and after much flicking, I found a small version; actually a large greetings card that I have framed and added to my travel images in our bedroom.
Portobello Beach sure seems like a creative enclave and we spotted posters of Sunday's art and crafts fair but didn't think we'd have time before our mid-afternoon train. Then came across it on our last beach walk and spent more money there than all the book shopping. I could have spent a lot more, but my case and my book bag were already full.
I bought a couple of candles from the Canadians in Scotland who run Black Bear & Pine Candles. One that smells of maple syrup - easy one - and the other, the one that drew me in, that promises the smell of an (old) library. Before that, I bought some hair/headbands from a Japanese maker, Wee Joys, which are true to their brand name.
All my favourite countries collided in this one visit: Japan, Canada and Scotland.
This market is added to the long list of highlights of visiting Portobello Beach. I'll be back in town soon.
April 2025
