Cologne: Do the Rhine Thing
Cologne is Germany’s fourth-largest city, and visiting it meant I have now had the privilege of experiencing the four largest cities and seven of the top 15.
Known for its cathedral, which we walked to as soon as we checked into our hotel, we then discovered much more. When we visited in late June, the city was preparing for its Pride festival. Cologne offers multiple riverside walks along the magnificent Rhine, with plenty to see. We spotted spectacular green birds, which we could barely see clearly as they were so perfectly camouflaged in the trees, fluttering speedily in and out of view.
As an architecture enthusiast, I noticed the trio of buildings in the distance and decided that sunset would be the coolest time to walk to that area. The three Crane Houses in Cologne’s Rheinauhafen are breathtaking, and I love the contrast between this kind of residential architecture and the Gothic Old Town, of which Cologne has many fine examples. I also admired how their modernised train stations looked beautifully retro, reminiscent of the mid-20th century. However, the most impressive architectural highlight of this trip turned out to be our hotel.
For shopping, Cologne has both a Hema and Muji. The former left the UK some time ago, and we usually only see it now in its native Netherlands, which we visit regularly for essentials. The latter is still mourned in Birmingham.
Regarding coffee, our first attempt nearby was nothing special; below average, expensive, and very slow, with only one member of staff. People People Coffee was in a lovely area, although again, with just one staff member and a long queue. However, I appreciated being able to use the loo, which are often lacking in Germany, with some shopping centres charging for access, even in food courts.
We also visited Rhein Street Coffee, but I don’t have any photos or clear memories of that visit. The heat played a part, but the lack of coffee and photos now seems curious as I reflect on this trip weeks later.
We enjoyed breakfast at the dog-friendly Kaffesaurus so that we could explore Belgisches Viertel, the Belgian Quarter.
Our one lunch was at a delightful supermarket, Alnatura. Once again, in typical German fashion, there was no loo available. We decided to explore the neighbourhood further. With no independent coffee shops nearby, we entered a chain establishment and asked about facilities before ordering; they had none. When asked further, they suggested a supermarket further down the road, which had complimentary loos. Go figure.
I recall enjoying good dinners at Hoai Viet and, on the last night, having tapas with a little carafe of wine at Salera, recalling the first time we shared a carafe and giggled all the way back to our hotel in Milan. This time, we managed a long walk to the Crane Houses.
Aside from the hotel, the highlight of this trip for me was the Lindt Chocolate Museum, which actually discussed very little about Lindt itself and focused more on social history. On a busy Saturday, the place was packed - everyone escaping the heat - and all seemed fully engaged as there was something for all ages. I loved seeing the old Suchard packaging, as my mum used to work for them; they were the makers of Toblerone in Bedford.
Although visiting three cities in six days was a bit tiring, travelling by train and returning via Eurostar made it more enjoyable. It was certainly a week full of discovery.
June 2025
